I think it takes a bit when you return from an epic journey; to digest what you have experienced and have an opportunity to put it in
perspective. Traveling makes us better human beings, plain and simple. We learn more about other cultures, other places, other people – and ourselves
Starting in Iceland, crossing the Denmark Strait then kissing the coast of Western Greenland we ventured inside her many fjords and inlets leading us to villages and extraordinary scenery that few have ever seen. It was Epic
Greenland is the world’s largest island and is 80% ice capped. The Inuit here came from originally Mongolia via North America as far back as 2500BC and the Vikings were kicking around here in the 10th century, (from Iceland). It was the 18th century that brought Danish colonialization (and Christianity) and in 1953 the Island became part of the Kingdom of Denmark. Greenland obtained home rule in 1979 and Self Government in 2009 however mother Denmark handles foreign affairs, security and financial policies
Almost 90% of the county’s 60,000 inhabitants are Inuit and it is in this unfathomably harsh environment that these communities manage to not only survive, but thrive. The capital NUUK is growing in leaps and bounds and with education available to all there is a growing movement, particularly within the younger generations, to embrace and share their heritage, bringing back traditions lost when Christianity was imposed
SilverWind was perfect for this journey; not too big, not too small; we had amazing weather and in mid August, being this far south we had daylight darn near 24 hours…..it was twilight like at midnight but not really dark. As we got further north it was darker but not for long. It was dark enough for Aurora Borealis one night which happened at 1:20am. That long awaited for announcement from Dave, our Expedition Leader – who had warned us – if lights are good and he gets a call from the bridge he will announce to the ship.
The scenery was breathtakingly gorgeous; we sailed the rarely visited U shaped Skjoldungen Fjord with its (retreating) Thrym Glacier – and mother nature cooperated EVERY step of the way. The zodiac excursions were epic; glacier face, waterfalls, wildflowers, rocks; shouts of joy from people, like me, who really didn’t really how truly outstanding this journey was going to be.
Kayakers got out day after day, and of course, with my deep love of paddling I got out as often as I could – and wow, did it deliver! She ship has 8 double’s so 16 max at a time with 2, extremely capable guides plus one spotter boat. Everyone who wanted to get out did get out, and for folks like me who wanted repeat performances, they happened. The moments are seared into my mind; the Arctic Fox we watched on the slopes of the bird colony; the sound of the ice popping as we paddled through it. Ah, a feast for the senses…and for my soul
As we moved up the coast of Western Greenland people and villages became a focus; into growing Nuuk, the capital – home to 1/3 of the country’s population and the only stop light in the country! The artistic scene is quite apparent here and a visit to a few shops will reveal some really unique pieces only to be found in this part of the world.
I was intrigued by the statue of Hans Egede; it is a highly controversial monument commemorating the Danish Lutheran Missionary who founded Nuuk in 1728 and thrust his practices on the Inuit
And so we sail up the west coast. Stunning scenery and incredibly small villages where Greenlandic culture is truly authentic. What an experience to be able to explore these villages; meet some of the locals and see how everyday life happens here in the Arctic.
Kangaamiut. Sisimiut (the people of the foxholes) and Greenland’s ‘second city’.
Ilulissat (pop 4,500) in Disko Bay; appropriately means Iceburg in Greenlandic as this area is KNOWN as the birthplace of icebergs is said to have spawned the berg that took down the Titanic. The ship arranged for us to go out in local (covered) boats of about 12 persons each. Here we played in the ice and caught whales enjoying the journey as much as we were. Magical, magical Ilulissat. The mouth of the harbor has a super narrow entrance. It is said that when burgs get too close to the entrance a rope is thrown it by two boats….then it is towed out of the way before it can ground and block the harbor
Saqqaq was a particular memorable kayak day; the weather was a tad overcast and moody which made for some amazing colors against the ice. It is shocking how quickly conditions can change with wind whipping up and cloud coming in but I always felt safe. Particularly when Sebestian showed us his Eskimo role abilities – in 4 degree water!
We teased him….a Greenlander would have come up with a fish!!
Things wrapped up in Kangerlussuaq where a charter flight back to Montreal concluded the trip. Just loved exploring this area; the only reason the airstrip exists is because it was built as a US Air Force base in 1941, during the war. Interesting fact – the 18 mile road from Kangerlussuaq to the IceCap was built originally by Volkswagen who used to do their cold climate testing here
Ah, SilverSea, you never disappoint. The dining room was lovely however I took most of my meals in the La Terrazza and the poolside Grill was still very doable, and quite pleasant with a lap blanket and heater. Butter Chicken from room service was outrageously good. The ship is so small and easy to get around; it felt more like I was a guest on someone’s yacht than on a cruise ship. Everyone was so darn nice and accommodating…especially since I have a habit of losing my room key and was on #4. The lectures and topics of discussion were diverse, well presented and extremely interesting – as well as very thought provoking and I appreciated being able to view in my room as well
This was a journey to connect with others and to connect with self. When you see scenery like this one can not help but acknowledge how truly small we are.
